Shikoku Travel Itinerary | 日本四國自由行

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First I wanna thank my friend C, who is now in Italy, for helping us find these incredible travel deals, and even scoring us so many Go To Campaign coupons that we tried really hard to spend it all!

Shikoku is a special place to me. I came here on a foreign exchange program when I was in elementary school. I stayed with a local family, I remember distinctly there was a river in front of their home, and a mountain in the backdrop of their backyard. Due to the pandemic, there are many places we cannot travel to in Japan.  we are extremely lucky to have visited Shikoku this time. And just four short days, we saw foliage, ate delicious foods, and even brought home many souvenirs. 

首先,我們要感謝已搬到義大利的朋友C,幫我們找到平凡人找不到的優惠專案,還讓我們Go To Campaign折價卷多到幾乎用不完!

四國對我來說是個特別的地方。國小時學校有機會來四國交換學生,那時住在當地寄宿家庭,印象好的不行。有首歌唱著”我家門前有小河,後面有山坡”,這寄宿家庭的房子完整呈現出來那歌所表達的意境。那時我們和當地小孩一起在小河裡玩,住宿爸媽在庭院烤飯糰,至今畫面感極強。疫情關係,我們無法到本島,這趟感恩節四國旅行像是得來不易的糖果。四天雖短,但如願賞楓,能吃到美味食物(還能室內用餐),還買了好多紀念品帶回家。

Transportation | 交通

Shikoku is comprised of Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi. But due to time constraints, we only visited Tokushima and Kagawa. We flew into Kobe Airport and rented a car to drive around in Shikoku. We rented our car from Rakuten, they offered free shuttle service to and from the airport. Just make sure to fill the tank prior to returning. 

四國是由德島縣、香川縣、愛媛縣、高知縣所組成的,但由於時間關係,我們只能到德島縣和香川縣。在四國的行程,我們已車子代步。先飛到神戶,拿到車後立刻開往四國。這次用的租車公司是在日本樂天網站訂的,租車人員會在機場接送,還車之前把油加滿就好。

Accommodations | 住宿

If you know which hotel you would like to stay at in Shikoku, just book it! We thought that due to the pandemic very few people would be traveling, we were surprised to find out that some of the hotels we liked were fully booked. Thanks once again to my friend C Who helped us booked a flight and hotel package!

來四國找到滿意喜歡的飯店立刻訂別猶豫!我們以為疫情關係沒人和我們搶飯店,沒想到想住的地方已客滿,有些飯店因我們慢了幾分鐘而被訂走。幸好有朋友C,幫我們訂到機加酒的套裝組合!

First Day | 第一天

Ryozenji

The koi fish here are humongous! Famous for being No. 1 Temple out of 88, a sacred journey trekked by devout pilgrims on foot wearing white robes and straw hats. Completing this pilgrimage is a lifetime goal of many. The 88 temples are spread across Shikoku, converting more than 1400 km. The road signs will tell you the temple number. Would you like to visit all 88 on foot? 

靈山寺

這裡的鯉魚大到不像話!四國88所廟的第一間寺廟,許多巡禮者穿著白袍來參拜。“二人同行”是這八十八所廟的主旨,意思兩人一起經歷這段旅程,聽說是許多信眾想達成的目標。八十八所寺廟分佈在四國各地,總長約1400公里,在路上會看到牌子寫著寺廟號碼。你想挑戰雙腳走完這八十八所廟嗎?

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Menoh Tokushima

This bowl of garlic Ramen is basically the Ramen version of Tainan Tantan noodle. Tokushima is proud of their signature ramen.  The broth is rich with flavor and a bit of sweet, highly recommend you add a raw egg to your Ramen. 

德島拉麵

那碗蒜頭拉麵根本是拉麵版台南擔仔麵。德島非常以他們的特色拉麵為傲,湯頭濃郁鹹中帶甜,吃前可以加顆生雞蛋。

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Ritsurin Garden

Ritsurin garden is a Michelin guide three star travel destination. It just so happened to be our first stop for foliage.  We saw a young couple wearing kimonos taking their engagement photos here.  also present were school children on their field trips. Perhaps this winter is not as cold, only some of the trees’ leaves turned red. View by the lake is stunning, attracting many professional photographers with their DSLRs and tripods. 

栗林公園

有著米其林觀光指南三星評價的栗林公園是我們三人追楓第一站!有新人在這拍日式婚照,專業攝影師腳架設好拍照,也有小朋友遠足旅行。可能是天氣還不夠冷,只有部分樹林葉子變橘,但多層次的顏色有不同感受。湖附近景色相當美,許多攝影師帶著專業相機和腳架在這拍照。偷看一下他們的照片,完全不需後製!

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Ikkaku

A favorite chicken restaurant of UN’s. He wouldn’t stop talking about it afterwards, but a bit salty for my taste.

一鶴

UN很愛的雞肉專賣店,回到飯店後念念不忘,但我卻覺得稍微偏鹹。

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Kotohira Kadan

The perfect hotel! Food was amazing and even have private onsen. Hotel garden is in full autumn mode. The foliage here makes for great photos. Back of the hotel is a walkway that leads to Kotohira-gu. 

琴平花壇

太完美的飯店了!食物好吃還有私人浴池,飯店花園已入秋,一片楓葉美到不行。後門走到金刀比羅宮,不需擔心停車問題。

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Second Day | 第二天

Kotohira-gu

We took the path behind our hotel Kotohira Kadan to get to the main entrance of Kotohira-gu.  this morning walk was peaceful, the calm before the storm, and the easiest walk of the day. The three of us totally underestimated the enormity of 1368 steps. The fact that I came wearing high heel boots tell you as much. When we got to Kotohira-gu main temple, we thought we had made it to the top. Only came to realize that we are only halfway. We wanted to stop by the café next to the main temple, but thought we would hit it up on our way back down. Boy, did we miscalculate! We rarely buy any souvenir, but when we got to the top of the 1368 steps we decided to buy some omamori as achievement awards. Please note that you can only get the black with gold omamori when you have reached the top. According to the travel books that we read, making it to the top here is on many people’s bucket list. We’ve crossed it off!

金刀比羅宮

從琴平花壇後門能走到金刀比羅宮的表參道,早晨安靜平穩的路是颱風前的寧靜,也是當日最容易的步行。三人以為1368階梯不難,連我都小看這路況穿了帶跟靴子。鮮少買紀念品或御守類的我們,都在最頂端買了御守當作紀念。走到金刀比羅宮本殿時,以為已經爬完,沒想到原來我們只在一半。原本想在本殿前的資生堂神椿甜點店休息一下,但三人以為快到終點決定回頭再來,完全失算!爬到最頂時,我們一致認為要把所有紀念品買了!網路上很多人說黃色御守是到最上面才有的,其實不是喔!黃色御守是本殿(階梯約一半)就能買到,但黑色帶金才是最頂端的特有御守!旅遊書上寫著這裡是很多人一生一定要來的地方,我們從清單劃掉啦!

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Konpira Kabuki Theater 

At the base of Kotohira-gu, but it was under renovation, we could only look from outside. 

旧金毘羅大芝居

就在金刀比羅宮旁,但正在修建,我們只能在外欣賞。

Nakano Udon School Kotohira

After the hike, we dragged our tired feet to learn how to make udon! Udon making requires leg work too! If you are smart, you would do these two activities on two different days. We had a lot of fun in udon class but was dead tired. Learned how to make udon from scratch: checked!

中野烏龍麵學校

爬完金刀比羅宮,腿軟的我們來做烏龍麵!烏龍麵教室也非常需要用腳力,強力建議把這兩項行程分開!雖然我們體力透支,但上課過程非常歡樂,而且最後還能吃烏龍麵做結尾!

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Iya Valley Hot Springs Hotel

Love the onsen here, the water makes your skin feels instantly soft. 

祖谷渓温泉飯店

最喜歡這裡的溫泉,皮膚瞬間嫩嫩的。

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Third Day | 第三天

Vine Bridge & Biwa Falls

The scenery here is straight out of a fairy tale book, but it’s quite chilly! The man in the parking lot was so friendly, kept trying to tell us where to visit. We tried our best broken Japanese to answer him and thank him. Iya valley vine bridge is one of three vine bridges left around this area. The other two are located in East Iya. People carefully crossing the bridge look from afar like little ants moving food. The gaps between the planks on the bridge is quite spread out. Would’ve taken more pictures but didn’t want to drop my phone. Each step was taken with extreme caution. 

祖谷溪 & 琵琶の滝

這裡好美也好冷!停車場爺爺超熱情,告訴我們該去的景點,而我們也用盡我們三人微薄的日文回答爺爺。祖谷藤橋是在這裡唯三僅存的藤橋,另外兩座橋位在東祖谷。從遠方看著遊客小心翼翼走藤橋,很像一群螞蟻努力搬食物。橋的木頭間隔相當大,想照相又怕手機掉下去,每一步都走得特別小心。

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 Iya Bijin

Soba restaurant with very satisfying soup base. But soba-wise, Okinawa does it better. 

祖谷美人

蕎麥麵專賣店,湯頭不錯,但我們更愛沖繩麵。

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Peeing Boy Statue

The view along this narrow and winding road is spectacular. Just make sure you slow down and make way for incoming traffic. This statue was erected to commemorate all the little boys that once peed into the river that runs through Iya valley. 

小便小增

沿路自然美景完全滿足追楓的我們!雖然不是九彎十八拐,但常遇到來車時必須互相退讓。小便小增是紀念在祖谷溪上廁所的每位小男孩。

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Awaodori Kaikan 

We skipped the rope way to the top of Bizan due to weather. This trip would not be complete without a cultural experience. We learned about Awa dance and history. 

阿波會館

因天氣關係我們省略纜車,但整趟旅行絕不能來一段文化體驗。我們學會阿波舞,和阿波歷史。

Naruto Grand Hotel 

What beats waking up to sunrise from the comfort of your room and dipping into onsen with the view of Naruto bridge!

鳴門海月飯店

早上在房間裡看日出,晚上望著鳴門橋泡溫泉!

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Forth Day | 第四天

Naruto Uzushio Kisen

We took a ferry out to see up close the famous Naruto whirlpools. The company website tells you forecasts of when the whirlpools are expected to be the strongest. The best times are also the most popular, so reserve ahead of time!

鳴門觀潮船

搭船看鳴門漩渦,官網有漩渦預測表。漩渦急促時段通常會訂光,一定要提早上網預約。

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Had originally planned to go to Seto art festival and visit Shikoku with my friend this past April, I finally made it! We had quite a few surprises this trip, we gasped at how expensive the tolls are in mainland, and rushed to spend ¥29,000 in Go To Campaign cash in less than 24 hours. What a memorable trip. Looking forward to the next time we visit mainland Japan!

原本去年要去瀨戶美術節、今年四月和朋友四國十日遊,我終於來了!沿途荒謬事情一堆,像是高速公路過路費異常的貴(快7000元日幣)、Go To Campaign送我們高達日幣兩萬九的禮卷必須在24小時內用光。期待下一趟的本島旅行!