Impulsive Christmas Trip to Aso | 聖誕節直衝熊本阿蘇

我和UN一如往常,坐飛機前會到那霸機場國內入境大廳旁的Pork Tamago Onigiri買豆腐口味和原味飯糰。拿好食物,一出店門口有位先生從店裡出來超貼心幫我們照相。當下沒太多交流,幾句日文表達謝意。我們到隔壁便利商店買牛奶,我嚷嚷著怎麼剛才沒和那人自我介紹多聊幾句。這位先生就突然出現,以為他也是來買飲料,結果竟然是幫我們付飲料錢。我和UN都驚呆了,完全不知道如何報答這位先生。我們聊了一下,知道彼此名字。非常感謝Shimizu San!

Getting Pork Tamago Onigiri (tofu and pork is our fav) at Naha Airport has become our travel routine. As we got out of the shop this time, a nice gentleman followed us out and offered to take our photos for us.  We had a brief conversation and said our “arigato” and went on our way next door to buy some milk at Family Mart. Just as I was regretting not having more conversation with that gentleman, he showed up again next to us. We thought he also came to buy something to drink, but instead he came to buy us our drinks. His kindness surprised us in this holiday season. We chatted a little longer and exchanged names. Thank you very much Shimizu-San!


photo7 2.jpg

(Please scroll down for English translation!)

最近沖繩好冷(大概華氏65度,我的東岸朋友們應該會殺我),我們衝動訂好機票來福岡泡溫泉!原本說好12月待在沖繩,但實在是經不起誘惑,懷念九州溫泉生活!朋友K一家人大推阿蘇,加上我們家常買阿蘇牛乳和阿蘇水,你覺得不來看一下怎麼行呢!這次自駕到熊本阿蘇,下雨過後的風景美呆了,簡直是在夢幻仙境裡開車。

大觀峰

UN每次設計的網美行程都會被我打槍。原先計畫在溫泉旅館裡悠閒泡溫泉和參觀一些不需腳力的景點,我卻在收拾行李時臨時提議去爬山。這類事每次旅行一定發生,我就是傳說中的難搞旅伴吧!好險UN人好願意奉陪!

阿蘇山

阿蘇山,世界最大活火山之一。2016因火山爆發,阿蘇五岳關起來,世界唯一能近距離看到火山口因火山隨時可能爆發禁止遊客進入。雖然往阿蘇山路上已知道此事,我們還是堅持一路開到被擋住的心態上山。直到距離火山口一公里處被擋住,畫面像是世界末日般被火山灰覆蓋。入口佈滿警告牌,反覆廣播警告遊客注意安全,警察車也擋住禁止民眾。僅有一家非常冷清的紀念品店開著,店外被黑灰蓋住,想像Stranger Things被underworld的怪物侵襲,就是那種感覺。

溫泉旅館

UN此行主要目標:泡溫泉!但最吸引我的是旅館提供的懷石料理,好吃到讓我每餐必吃兩碗飯。非常喜歡傳統和室,睡前工作人員會把床鋪好。我們好像小丸子、多啦a夢,實在是太可愛了!

馬肉

熊本是馬肉發源地。雖然不是第一次吃馬肉,但吃馬肉時旁邊有人騎馬還真的是第一次。那感覺太怪了,我們還是想騎馬的啊!

Lately it’s been getting kinda chilly here in Okinawa (~65F, my east coast friends please don’t kill me). Originally we agreed to stay in Okinawa for Christmas and New Year, but we impulsively purchased tickets to visit onsen in Fukuoka, because Kyushu onsen life is irresistible! Our friend K is from Fukuoka and highly recommended Aso to us! We love buying Aso water and Aso milk, so it’s destined that we visit Aso. We rented a car and drove to Aso, Kumamoto. Driving in the misty mountain roads after the rain is beyond magical. 

Daikanbo

UN’s planned insta-friendly itinerary inevitably will be amended by me. His original goal for this trip is to soak in hot spring at our onsen ryokan and visit a couple easily accessible sites. But as we were packing, I suggested we go hiking. Yes, this happens all the time. I guess I’m the annoying travel partner. Good thing UN is nice and accommodates my spontaneity!

Mount Aso 

Mount Aso, one of the largest active volcanoes in the world. Due to volcanic eruption in 2016, Mount Aso is now closed off-limits to visitors. The only place on earth where you can be within 1 km away from an active volcano that can erupt any minute. Although we already knew about the closure, we still wanted to get as far as possible. When we got to the entrance of the volcano, it looked like a scene from the apocalypse; the sun is obscured from the clouds, and everything is covered in black volcanic ash. The entrance is fenced off with lots of warning signs cautioning visitors from trespassing the fence. There is also recorded announcement on megaphones with similar warning messages in multiple languages. Police cars with flashing sirens patrol the area to ensure visitors follow the rules. The only place that is opened is the lone souvenir shop, which is also covered in black volcanic soot. It literally looks like the place is in the underworld in Stranger Things under attack by monsters. 

Ryukan

UN’s main goal for this trip: soak in onsen! But I’m more interested in the delicious traditional Japanese keiseki meals provided by the ryokan. So delicious that I asked for two bowls of rice every meal! I absolutely love our Japanese style room. The staff will make our bed for us every night and morning. I feel like we are in a Japanese comic book, super kawaii! 

Horse Meat 

Kumamoto is known for horse meats. Although it’s not my first time having horse meats, it is my first time eating it while people do horse riding right outside. What an eerie feeling. Is it weird I still want to ride horses?

Thanksgiving In Fukuoka|感恩節在福岡

photo22 4.jpg

Thanksgiving is a binge eating holiday. Therefore, we now lack the courage to step onto the scale! There’s so much good food in Fukuoka. We needed about 10X the stomach capacity to enjoy all the foods we wanted to eat. UN loves ramen, and I like mochi and nabe (hot pot). We had those everyday we were in Fukuoka!

大家感恩節好嗎?依美國習俗,感恩節就是要大吃特吃,但此刻的我們,不敢站上體重計!福岡讓我們吃到撐,撐到希望自己有十個胃,把想吃的都裝進肚子裡!UN愛吃的拉麵,我愛吃的大福和火鍋,在福岡那幾天,我們天天至少吃一次。集合我們最愛的食物,我們怎麼可能不愛這。

Hakata 博多

Ate from sunrise to sundown, didn’t even make time for any sightseeing. We must have had 10 meals a day, no joke. Our dinner was motsunabe (beef intestine hot pot) and ramen, followed by yatai (street food stand). Hakata is about 15 minutes subway ride from the airport, and we managed to slurp down a bowl of ramen before our flight back to Okinawa.

從早吃到晚的行程,完全沒參觀任何景點。不誇張,我們每天至少吃五頓,兩人還堅持必須一人點一份(外加一堆小菜、甜點),晚餐通常以一份牛腸鍋、兩份拉麵,然後以屋台小吃為結尾。博多車站離福岡機場約15分鐘車程,離開當天還不忘先吃碗拉麵再走人。福岡太迷人了,怎麼辦我好想念這裡!如果下次有在這裡轉機,可以搭車速奔博多車站,那裡有好多美食!

Restaurant List | 餐廳清單

photo35.jpg
photo29 2.jpg

Motsunabe 牛肚鍋

吃了幾家Google Maps擁有千人評論的牛肚鍋店,老實說大同小異,但唯獨這家(Motsunabe Rakutenchi)讓我們印象深刻!不是因為他味道特別出色或份量最多,是因為地點特別!外觀看起來有點老舊,店裡特別狹窄,乾淨這詞可能不太搭這家店。但也可能因為客人們在狹小空間用餐,店員和客人們互動特別熱絡,算是非常特別的經驗!

Tried a few motsunabe places that had rave reviews on Google, they are tasted similar. We want to give a special mention to this one (Motsunabe Rakutenchi) not because of its food, but rather its location. Although it doesn’t look like much from the outside, inside hallway is narrow, and I wouldn’t say it’s clean. But the atmosphere is very cozy, and the staff were friendly. A great experience overall!

Nabe List 火鍋清單

photo11 5.jpg
photo9 6.jpg

Ramen 拉麵

這是UN最愛吃的食物,也愛博多拉麵的豚骨湯頭!我們剛搬來日本時,第一餐UN就要求吃拉麵!

UN calls himself a ramen head, especially loves Hakata tonkatsu ramen! Our very first meal in Japan was ramen per UN’s request!

Ramen List | 拉麵清單

photo32 2.jpg

Unagi Rice 鰻魚飯

Simply passing by, didn’t realize this place is a popular unagi restaurant. Japanese rice is so delicious! Unagi was flavorful and tender. This is now on my must-eat list in Fukuoka!

純屬路過,進去後才發現這是有名的鰻魚飯!不得不說,日本人也太會煮飯了吧!以前不愛吃飯的我,現在都能把整碗飯吃光。當然鰻魚也好香、好嫩,被我列為去福岡該吃的店!

Unagi List 鰻魚清單

photo24 4.jpg
photo26 2.jpg

Yatai 屋台

We learned how to pick the right yatai! Don’t be fooled by the long lines. Don’t do what we did! LOL* Yatai food with beer complement these breezy autumn nights. Highly recommend oden, great appetizers!

我們抓到選擇屋台的小技巧!千萬別被超長隊伍吸引,但這好像是盲從夫婦該做的!天氣很冷,但每次屋台食物配上啤酒,太誘人了!必點關東煮,非常開胃!

photo7 6.jpg
photo12 5.jpg
photo8 6.jpg

Dazaifu & Ichiran Ramen 太宰府 & 一蘭合格拉麵

The ume mochi is quite extraordinary! The warm feeling of soft mochi with sweet red beans was a delight for the palate. We nearly tried all the ume mochi stands there.

Ichiran ramen needs no introduction! These pentagon-shaped bowls are specific to this branch here at Dazaifu. “Five-angle” sounds similar to “passed” in Japanese, students would line up here to eat the ramen during exam times. There aren’t that many seats, so the wait can be long, more time for the students to study while waiting for their ramen!

我們太愛梅枝餅(梅ヶ枝餅)了!不管歷史流傳下來還是生意噱頭,我們就是愛這種麻糬加紅豆,衝動到品嚐了幾乎每家的梅枝餅。這東西實在是太合我胃口,下次要買多點帶回沖繩吃!

一蘭拉麵當然好吃,無需多解釋!這裡的一蘭是五角形拉麵碗稱合格拉麵,門口拉麵販賣機有合格袋裝零錢。筷子五角形叫合格著,這噱頭似乎有點過頭,我們發現其實很多日本餐廳都有五角形筷子設計。裡面位置不多,和UN等了約20分鐘。我想考生排隊等拉麵的時間讀書,好好利用時間,還有一碗好吃拉麵,好像不錯耶!考生們加油!

Food List 食物清單

photo42.jpg
photo45.jpg
photo46.jpg
photo33.jpg
photo40.jpg
photo44.jpg

Hells of Beppu & Sand Bath 別府地獄溫泉和海濱砂浴

Soaking in hot spring on a cold day makes you go “ahhhh”. Japanese has a word for it called “kimochi”. Beppu is about two hour train ride from Hakata station. At Beppu train station you can purchase bus pass and admission tickets to Hells of Beppu. Beppu is known for having the second most natural hot springs in the world, behind Yellowstone National Park. In front of the station is a free hand spa. You can also opt to drive in Beppu, parking is very convenient.

There are a total of 7 hot springs, most have foot spas that’s included with admission, and a couple have actual onsen for bathing. You can bring your own towel and soak your tired feet in hot springs at these scenic spots. Sand bath is a one of a kind experience! While waiting for your turn to be buried in hot sand (warmed by steam from hot springs), you can once again enjoy the foot spa right next to it.

冬天泡溫泉真的好舒服!從博多車站坐火車到別府,約兩小時。下車後能到服務中心買巴士票和地獄溫泉的入場卷,車站前面有溫泉泡手。如果自駕,每個景點都有停車場。

全世界第二大天然溫泉產地,僅次於美國黃石公園。在別府小路裡,到處能看到溫泉熱水冒出來的熱煙。當地也有蒸汽餐廳,用溫泉蒸汽煮出來的食物。餐廳裡還能邊吃飯邊泡腳,非常適合冷天來。

來別府一定要參觀地獄溫泉!共七個地獄溫泉參觀點,有些地方能進去泡溫泉,有些景點提供足湯。帶自己的浴巾,方便在不同景點泡腳擦乾。大推砂浴,非常特別的經驗!等砂浴時能到旁邊的足湯泡腳看風景。

photo19 4.jpg
photo21 4.jpg
photo20 4.jpg
photo14 5.jpg
photo13 5.jpg
photo18 4.jpg
photo5 8.jpg
photo6 7.jpg

Sumo Wrestler Tour | 相撲巡迴表演

photo3 12.jpg

Sumo exhibit touring through Okinawa, allowing us to experience the Japanese culture of wrestling. A two-day event, with food vendors (delicious karaage fried chicken), sumo practice performance, comedy show, and tournament. This event drew a big crowd, including Japanese reporters to interview the sumo wrestlers who came here from all over Japan. We were so happy we could attend this exhibit. 

相撲巡迴表演來到沖繩,讓我們好好感受日本相撲文化。兩天滿滿的活動活動,場外有好吃炸雞,場內有相撲比賽和太鼓和搞笑表演,日本綜藝節目也來訪問參觀民眾和相撲,非常熱鬧。剛搬來住在飯店時,看到日本電視台採訪這次有來巡迴的一位相撲,能在這次活動看到,我們好興奮!

photo5 9.jpg
photo4 9.jpg
photo2 14.jpg
photo7 7.jpg
photo8+7.jpg
photo1 18.jpg